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GREEN IGUANA CARE
Green iguanas can make interesting pets. They can be difficult to maintain for long periods of captivity, however because they have very specific nutritional environmental needs and because they grow extremely large (up to 6 feet in length and weighing 15 pounds). With proper care, iguanas can live 12 to 15 years. CHOOSING A HEALTHY IGUANA Most iguanas sold in pet stores are caught in the wild at a young age. A healthy baby iguana should be a bright green color. It should be alert and bright-eyed, watching for activity inside and around its cage. Its belly should be rounded with no loose skin folds; the rear legs and tail base should be well muscled and not bony. The skin should be smooth without lumps or dark patches of discoloration. There should be no discharges from the eyes, mouth, vent, or nose; however, as iguanas have nasal salt glands which rid the body of excess salt, a dried, white discharge (salt) around the nostrils is normal. It is abnormal for a baby iguana to be very passive and allow you to pick it up easily. RESTRAINT AND HANDLING Reptiles are not domestic animals and do not normally enjoy being held and petted. Frequent handling, however, is important for “taming” your iguana so it becomes accustomed to people. Iguanas that hare handled at an early age can remain very gentle even when full-grown. The safest way to pick up an iguana is to grasp the shoulders and neck from above with one hand, using your other hand to hold under the pelvis and rear limbs. When handling an iguana, wear long sleeves or keep a towel draped over your arm to avoid being scratched by the reptile’s sharp claws. CARE IN CAPTIVITY Green iguanas are tropical animals. A captive environment should be set up to best approximate the temperature, humidity, and ultraviolet light found in the reptile’s natural setting. Ultraviolet Light Access to ultraviolet light is the captive iguana’s most important requirement. Iguanas are known as “basking lizards” because they spend much of their time basking in the sun. When the sun’s rays hit the iguana, the body manufactures Vitamin D. This vitamin is essential for proper absorption and utilization of calcium by your iguana. Calcium deficiency is the most common medical problem seen in captive iguanas. The best source of ultraviolet light is the sun. In northern climates, the sun is strong enough to be beneficial only in the summer. It is no known how much sun is enough, but iguanas should receive a full day of sun at least two or three times a week. This can be accomplished by putting the iguana’s cage outdoors or on a sunny window ledge. Since ultraviolet rays cannot penetrate glass, the iguana should be kept in a wire cage when “sunning.” Be sure that you provide a shaded area in the cage. Using two types of bulbs simultaneously, Vita-Lite and Black Light-BL, can provide a close approximation of ultraviolet rays of the sun. You should be able to buy these bulbs at most lighting stores. If your iguana is not receiving enough natural sunlight, you should provide it with 8 to 12 hours a day of light from these two bulbs. DIET Green Iguanas eat a variety of plants, insects, and small rodents. The more varied the captive diet, the more likely it is to meet your iguana’s nutritional needs. Foods to offer can be divided into two basic groups: protein-calcium foods and vegetable-plant foods. Sources of protein and calcium include: tofu, hard-boiled eggs, pelleted rabbit or guinea pig food, trout chow, monkey biscuits, baby mouse pups, and dog food. (Cat food is too rich for iguanas.) Vegetable to offer include: thawed frozen mixed vegetables, alfalfa sprouts, green beans, dandelion, spinach, kale, carrot tops, and beet, turnip and collard greens. Some iguanas are attracted to red foods such as sweet peppers, roses hibiscus, and carnations. Young, growing iguanas have different nutritional needs than older iguanas. Young iguanas should be fed finely chopped foods on a daily basis. Older iguanas can eat larger chunks of food and can be fed three to four times a week. Too little calcium and protein can cause illness in young iguanas: too much calcium and protein can be harmful for full-grown iguanas. CAGING Caging should be kept simple and easy to clean. Iguanas should not be left loose in the house, not only are accidents and escapes common, but also, a “roaming” iguana will not receive the necessary heat and ultraviolet light it requires. Size – Healthy iguanas grow rapidly; therefore, the first cage you purchase should be large. Glass aquariums can be used to house young iguanas. Larger enclosures can be made from Plexiglas, wire, and wood. There are several brands of commercial reptile fiberglass cages that are practical to set up and easy to clean. Substrate – Line the bottom of the cage with reptile sand, newspaper, indoor-outdoor carpeting, or alfalfa pellets such as rabbit food. It is best to have two pieces of artificial grass or carpeting so that one piece can be used inside the cage while the other is cleaned and dried. Temperature – The body temperature of reptiles depends on the environmental temperature. It is important to provide a temperature range within the cage so your iguana can select its preferred temperature. Adequate warmth is important for proper digestion of food and for your iguana’s health. The heat source should be located outside the cage. An incandescent bulb or red heat lamp can be hung over one end of the cage during the day. A heating pad under the cage can be used during the day and also at night when the lights are out. The cage should be slightly raised so the heating pad does not come into direct contact with it. Ideal temperature ranges are between 80° to 95°F during the day and no lower than 70° to 75°F at night. Provide a raised daytime basking area under the light where temperatures reach 95° to 100°F. It is important to measure temperatures in all parts of the cage and at different heights where climbing structures are located. Lighting – Try to provide a regular light/dark cycle for iguana. Iguanas should get 12 to 14 hours of light and 10 to 12 hours of darkness per day. Ultraviolet lights are essential. Water – Keep clean water in a bowl large enough for the iguana to soak in. The cage can be misted several times per week to maintain proper humidity. Climbing and Hiding Structures – Provide wide natural tree branches and rocks in the cage for basking and climbing. These can be arranged to make a sight barrier to the outside, providing the iguana with a sense of security. Plastic plants are also useful for this purpose. Avoid live plants in the cage since some are poisonous. Sanitation – It is important to keep the iguana’s cage clean to avoid infections of the skin and other organs that result from contact with urine and feces. Simple cage set-ups are recommended because cage cleaning is easier and faster. A once a week cleaning is generally recommended. It is a good habit; however, to remove any spoiled food or excrement from the cage as soon as it is noticed. The cage can be washed with soap and water as necessary. Periodic disinfecting with one ounce of chlorine bleach diluted in a one quart of water is advised. Rinse the cage thoroughly and allow drying before putting the iguana back in. Cagemates – Iguanas should be caged alone. Putting more than one iguana in a cage often leads to fighting. The presence of a second iguana even within view of another may result in excited reactions, decreased appetite, and thrashing around the cage. COMMON DISEASE PROBLEMS You should become familiar with your pet’s normal behavior patterns so as to recognize any changes in activity or appetite. Signs of illness include: Lethargy SOFT TISSUE MINERALIZATION Mineralization of internal organs and soft tissues such as muscles and tendons can occur as a result of too much calcium, protein, and/or Vitamin Ds in the diet. This is a problem usually seen in older iguanas. Clinical signs are often vague and include lethargy and loss of appetite. Treatment of this condition may be difficult. METALBOLIC BONE DISEASE This is the most common disease affecting iguanas. It results from a lack of sufficient dietary calcium and/or Vitamin D3 (in the form of sunlight or oral vitamins). Iguanas develop osteoporosis and low blood calcium. The physical signs of this disease are variable. Baby iguanas may show weakness, inability to walk (particularly with the rear legs), and a soft jaw (the jaw should normally be as firm as the human jaw). Other young iguanas will develop swelling of the jaw and leg bones. Loss of appetite, inability to defecate, rear leg paralysis, and crooked spines are also seen. Older iguanas usually show weakness, loss of appetite, and muscle twitching. ABSCESSES Iguanas can develop both internal and external abscesses. External abscesses appear as swollen area under the skin, usually occurring around the head and mouth or on the feet and toes. DRY GANGRENE OF TOES AND TAIL Young iguanas often develop dry, black discoloration of one or more toes or the tip of the tail. This can occur due to constriction by unshed skin. Soak the affected area in warm water to loosen the skin and gently remove it with tweezers, several soakings may be necessary. In other cases this condition occurs without an obvious cause in animals that appear to be otherwise healthy, no treatment is necessary. Sometimes iguanas with this condition are sick with calcium/Vitamin D3 deficiency or a systemic bacterial infection. In these animals, the gangrenous area will enlarge or spread to other toes. FACE RUBBING A captive iguana may try to escape by constantly rubbing its nose against the sides or top of its cage. Providing a hiding area within the cage (artificial plant arrangement or cardboard box) to improve the reptile’s sense of security can often reduce this behavior. MOUTH ROT Infection of the lips and gums is usually the result of low environmental temperature, inadequate sanitation, and diet lacking in vitamins. Affected iguanas show difficulty eating, excessive salivation and mucus in the mouth, and red, swollen gums. Mild cases can be treated with topical medications: severe cases also require injectable antibiotic therapy. In these cases, both caging and diet should be improved. THERMAL INJURIES Burns usually occur on the belly and underside of iguanas that have been lying on heating pads and are too weak to move off them. Burns can also occur if iguanas come into contact with heat lamps that have been placed within the cage. Treatment depends on the severity of the burn. EGG BINDING Iguana breeding season is in January and February. Solitary captive female iguanas may ovulate and develop eggs, usually between January and April (sometimes later in northern climates), even in the absence of a mate (the eggs will be infertile). These females have a swollen belly and decreased appetite. Egg binding occurs due to infection, nutritional deficiencies, and/or lack of sufficient dirt or sand to tunnel into for egg laying. The diagnosis of egg binding is confirmed with x-rays. PROLAPSE OF THE UTERUS OR HEMIPENIS Prolapse of the uterus is a medical emergency and should be checked as soon as possible by your veterinarian. Sometimes male iguanas will prolapse a hemipenis and be unable to retract it back into the vent. Keep prolapsed tissues moist and clean with warm water or sterile lubricating jelly such as K-Y Jelly until reaching the veterinary clinic. BROKEN TAIL OR TOE A broken tail or toe may require no treatment, or it may require splinting or surgery depending on severity. BLADDER STONES Iguanas sometimes develop stones within the urinary bladder. Clinical signs of this condition may include listlessness, swollen belly, or blood in the droppings. A x-ray is used to make the diagnosis. Surgical removal is the treatment. Sources: www.reptiledirect.com – all reptile supplies at great prices www.t-rexproducts.com – reptile products and information |
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